Climate Change and Its Impact on Portuguese Wine

The realities of climate change are being felt across Portugal, prompting wine producers to explore different grape varieties to ensure the future of their wines. At a recent tasting in Portugal’s Douro Valley, a humorous exchange between a viticulturalist and a winemaker highlighted the pressing changes in the vineyard landscape.

Adapting to New Conditions

Márcio Nobrega, head of viticulture at Sogevinus, noted that as extreme weather patterns emerge, the types of grapes planted are also shifting. Over the next decade, the Douro Valley is expected to gradually transition to grape varieties that can retain acidity and withstand drought conditions.

Carlos Alves, director of viticulture and oenology at Sogevinus, emphasized the importance of finding new or underutilized grape varieties that can thrive in the changing climate. Some of the varieties being considered include Tinta Cão, Rufete, and Touriga Nacional, which are noted for their resilience.

The Rise of Resilient Varieties

Fátima Lopes, head port winemaker at Vallegre Vinhos do Porto, highlighted Touriga Franca for its elegance and aromatic potential, which is gaining international recognition. Both Lopes and Nobrega are focusing on planting Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca due to their adaptability in hot conditions.

Tinto Cão is particularly noted for its small berries and thick skin, making it resistant to weather fluctuations. As producers aim to plant grapes that retain more acidity, varieties like Tinta Barroca are being phased out due to their poor performance in high temperatures.

Advanced Vineyard Management

Marketing director Ana Montenegro from Vinhos Borges is also advocating for Tinto Cão and Touriga Nacional, stating these grapes ensure high-quality wine production even under climatic stress. Montenegro is anticipating a gradual shift towards more drought-tolerant grape varieties and is implementing advanced vineyard management practices, including precision viticulture. This approach allows better monitoring of vine health, soil moisture, and temperature, optimizing irrigation and reducing environmental impact.

Nobrega at Sogevinus’ Quinta São Luis echoed similar sentiments about the necessity of irrigation, especially given the increasing temperatures and reduced rainfall. He reported that around 5% of vines have died in the past five years due to these conditions.

As the landscape of grape varieties and vineyard management evolves, producers are committed to adapting to the changing climate while maintaining the quality of Portuguese wines.